Back to School - Teen Queen II

This Pro is not only a makeup artist, but I am a mom too and more importantly, I have teenagers! In a past IMPO post titled Teen Queen, I mentioned a few of my “pet peeves” when it comes to teen girls who must put loads of makeup on their pretty faces in order to feel confident or to “fit in!” This post will be a little different, it is time to go back to school and that means it is time to help your teen get prepped for the upcoming year.

As parents we shop for new clothes, school supplies and other back to school “must haves,” but have you ever stopped to consider that now is the perfect time to replenish your teen’s supply of skincare and makeup?

Go through your teen’s accoutrement of facial wash, moisturizer, sunscreen and all cosmetics. Throw out the gross, expired, crusted, stinky product and shop for some new items. And, it is o.k. for your teen to express herself when it comes to her individual look. Embrace her differences, encourage her to play up her most outstanding features (eyes, lips, skin) and help her cover those areas that she feels are embarrassing, like acne or other skin issues.

When I was a teenager I wanted to change my looks so badly! I didn’t like my face, my hair or the fact that I was 5 feet taller than everyone else! Instead of being guided to appreciate my gorgeous green eyes, high cheekbones or the fact that I had perfect skin at the age of 14, all I wanted was to look like someone else! I hated my nose, my hair was not blonde enough, I was too tall and it took several agonizing years before I was able to be thankful for what I was born with!

Junior High is the worst time for teens! High school is a little easier, but not much. Your teen is in desperate need for a parent’s approval and attention, but at the same time, she or he wants their independence and privacy! Others who are huge influences surround them and if you are not careful, your teen will latch on to someone they think is the ultimate and that can spell disaster.

I try hard to be the “cool” mom by listening to my teenager’s needs; feelings, anxieties and I try to help however I can. Sometimes all I can do is listen and offer good old mom advice like, “tomorrow will be a better day!” And one of the most important things I do is to accept and inspire my teen’s individuality.

Now, I am not an expert and I am not here to lecture anyone who is reading this blog post, but I am going to advise other parents in my position to set aside a few dollars and go shopping for products that will boost your teen’s confidence and help them brave a new school year.

It is worth every penny and it is an investment in the one person who will not appreciate your effort on the outside, but on the inside loves you more than you know! That is tough love, but I’ll take it!

This Pro has tested more beauty products for teens than I ever care to admit and I will tell you that most have gone straight into the garbage because they either clog the pores of the skin or they damage the hair or they make beautiful, young ladies look like tramps.

But, there are many products that I do love and have given to my own teens to wear and use with much success. Here is a list of the “goods” that have this Pro’s seal of approval:

Jan Marini Teen Clean – this skincare line is top notch and helps to fight all adolescent skin concerns. This is a 3-step program that includes a wash, lotion and daily face protectant. It is amazing on skin that is changing and developing and that may be suffering from more major acne issues. Jan Marini says, “most sun damage occurs before the age of 10 and at least 80% of sun damage happens before the age of 18!” I cannot stress enough the importance of giving your daughter or son a good skincare regime that includes proper sunscreen. Think about it – did your mom make you wash your face every morning and night and apply sunscreen before you left for school? How do you feel about your own skin right now? Enough said!

Dermalogica Clean Start – this product line does not have a bejeweled jar or glittered packaging like most teens love however, what it does have is a star-studded following and user base like the cast from The Suite Life of Zack and Cody and Wizards of Waverly Place. The kit contains a foaming cleanser, toner, scrub, two daytime moisturizers, a nighttime moisturizer, spot treatment for blemishes and a lip moisturizer. It does not have a sunscreen so you will want to purchase a facial protectant to accommodate this regime. I like this line for more dry to normal skin with few acne issues.

It is important to instill in your teen the effectiveness of cleansing and you must show them how to maintain, prevent breakouts and protect their skin everyday. Starting them off with good skin habits will last a lifetime and when they are in there 30’s they will thank you for nagging them!

Foundation, concealer and powder are part of the skincare team and it is mandatory to purchase good cosmetic formulas that are made to work along side your skincare and not against it! Mineral lines are great for teens and the only line that I approve of is Purely Cosmetics.

Purely Cosmetics is great for teen skin because it contains 100% natural ingredients that have no bismuth, talc, micronized minerals or other skin irritants. This product line is formulated by hand to match the exact skin tone and it will effectively cover minor to major skin blemishes without clogging the pores. Purely’s color line is not full of sparkles or glitter so allowing your teen to wear the latest colors from the runway won’t be as intense (even though that is what she wants)!

One of the tricks that I have taught my teens is to use an all over neutral wash of color on the eyes from the lid to the brow bone – like a warm vanilla shade. Then use a more vibrant and fun color to line the top lash line – like a sapphire blue, amethyst, emerald or gray. Black liner will always be a parent’s nemesis, but it is time to make peace with that enemy and either encourage your daughter (and now your son with guy liner) to only line the top lash line or inside, bottom water line and use more neutral colors as eye shadow.

Mascara can be any drug store brand that is easy to remove with soap and water or eye makeup remover. It is up to you which formula you allow your teen to wear and with many mascaras debuting colors for the fall season, you may find that using a pretty blue, green, purple or gray product really makes your teen’s eyes pop instead of the traditional black or brown.

Neutral blush is very important and it is crucial that you encourage your teen to choose a light color in a peach or pink tone or wear no blush color at all opting for the natural flush of their skin tone to show through.

A highlight is not recommended for teens because they tend to go overboard when they apply something with more sparkle and that can be an overwhelming look on any young person (like they were playing in their mother’s makeup)! I don’t want my girls looking like Brooke Shields a la Pretty Baby!

This Pro makeup mom loves the Sephora brand of cosmetics because they have a wide range of color in all textures with great prices! My teens feel as if they are shopping like grown ups instead of being treated like little girls! However, the testers at some of the Sephora stores do not meet with my approval and so I have forbidden my girls to place a “tester” product directly onto their face and insist they use the backs of their hands in order to test product prior to purchasing.

Lipgloss is the only approved product for teens. I do not like the look of a heavy lipstick and lip liner on any young lady. I allow my teens to use pretty colors from M.A.C. or Lancôme Juicy Tubes also score big points from my girls. Even though your teen will constantly be applying and reapplying lipgloss (especially if it smells and tastes like chocolate, strawberry or watermelon), we parents have to pick and choose our battles and as long as the gloss color is not neon yellow, orange, green, blue or red than I say, let this one go!

Now get out there and bond with your teen over a trip to the mall and enjoy the one-on-one time you will have with your offspring! They are growing up fast and you never know, they may end up teaching you a thing or two about beauty products!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If your teen suffers from very oily skin after they have washed their face properly, have them apply at mattifying product. This Pro loves Eve Pearl’s Anti-Shine product, which goes on after skincare, but before cosmetic. Also, have them use blotting papers during the day to control the shine instead of constantly powdering their face. I love Rodan + Fields UnBlemish blot papers with Zincidone, they will absorb oil without adding product to the face!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Spotlight on Julie Hewett! Ever wonder what Annette Bening, Jodie Foster, Nicole Kidman or Mandy Moore wears on their face? Step into the world of Julie Hewett and discover exquisite beauty!

Cover Up!

In this Pro’s world of television, film and photography makeup sometimes I think I have seen “it” all! However, I am reminded daily that I am naive in having this type of thought process because some people live life on the edge, fulfill their deep desires, wear their hearts on a sleeve and they choose to share it with the world through the art of tattooing.

This Pro does not have a "tat," but I know many who do and I have been asked to use my artistic talent to free-hand tattoos on actors/models or cover up some pretty amazing art work when the “character” is supposed to be a more “innocent” type.

I find tattoos to be the ultimate “art” form because they tell such personal “stories.” People who have tattoos display them proudly and share their life experiences with the world both happy and tragic.

Tattoos announce the birth, marriage, initiation, union or death of many and can appear so life-like that you can feel the emotions of the person displaying these “events” without them ever muttering a word.

However, there are the occasional drunk-off-my-ass type of tats that can be forever a regret in the mind of a young man or woman and usually those are able to be covered up by clothing…sometimes!

This Pro loves watching the reality show L.A. Inked! Kat Von D and her family of incredible artists are extraordinary and create some of the most inspiring pieces of art that I think even Picasso would have found intriguing.

Don’t you wonder what stimulates a person to want to permanently ink their passion onto their skin? I do…I want to know what the stars on Kat Von D’s temple mean to her.

I want to know who, what, where, when, why and how…because I know that there is a testimony behind each mark. A fascinating, funny, fearless, tragic or manic story and to me, tattoos are like reading a book, but the author is standing in front of you eager to share their personal experience and take you with them on a journey!

I find tattoos also frightening and horrific. When an inmate jailed for a lifetime turns to inking his entire body, face included, with eerie words, numbers or symbols. Those who worship a faith that is satanic or killers who proudly display their murderous adventures are too much for this Pro to handle and I feel overwhelming sadness for these people knowing that they are someone’s children and have chosen a path full of hatred.

Most of the time I find that individuals who express themselves through the art of tattooing are creative, loving, free-spirited and maybe a tad bit “naughty!” It is requested of this Pro on most shoots to cover up said “art” especially when it is time for the individual to walk down the aisle or stand-up and support a friend who is walking down the aisle.

I also have been asked many times to help women (never a man) cover up an inked area in order to give them the advantage over a competitor in a job interview. Or on a more rare occasion, I have been begged to school a young soul on covering up the tattoo gone wrong!

Whatever your reason for needing to cover up a tattoo, here is a list of what you will need for a D.I.Y. method:

Cool-toned concealer with yellow undertone 1-2 shades lighter than skin-tone

Warm-toned concealer with orange/red undertone matching skin-tone

EXACT skin-tone match foundation

Sponge

Orange Puff

Setting Powder

Makeup Sealer Spray

Cover up Facts:

Your main objective is to “neutralize” colors in a tattoo. Remember the color wheel theory this Pro has mentioned in past posts? Which colors “cut” colors? Orange cuts Blue, Green cuts Red…etc., that is how you will neutralize the colors of your “inked” area.

However, for this type of quick disappearing act use the above-mentioned product. Don’t try to get fancy with green, purple, yellow or orange primers, concealers or neutralizers. Those usually require special training by a professional and can be more time consuming and frustrating when you feel the “pressure” to make your tattoo invisible.

WARNING: Covering a tattoo should only be done when your tattoo is completely healed! If you choose to cover a fresh tattoo you may cause an infection.

Here is the how-to (small tattoos only):

1. Clean area and use razor to remove hair if needed (this is necessary for makeup to adhere to your skin properly). Dry area thoroughly.

2. Begin with cool-toned, yellow-based concealer and stipple product onto the tattoo with sponge. Build up the coverage if needed. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

3. Use warm-toned, orange/red-based concealer and apply on top of yellow-based concealer lightly using stipple method. Swiping product across the area will only “smudge” and wipe off the first concealer application. Build coverage. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

4. Set with setting powder using orange puff and gently patting powder onto the concealer. Dust off excess powder.

5. Apply EXACT matching foundation using sponge and stipple method over concealer.

6. Set with powder using same method listed in Step 4.

7. Apply spritz of makeup setting spray or fixative.

Pro Tip: I recommend using theatrical, cream concealers and foundations, which are listed below because of there “staying” power, however you can use liquid product, but do not expect the same coverage or lasting results.

While researching this post, this Pro came across an interesting technique used by another makeup artist and I just had to test out this theory…

Using all of the same makeup products listed above, add a red-based lipstick to that group and use it first prior to the yellow-based concealer. Let dry and adhere to skin and then continue with the steps above in the same order. Below are photos of our experiment. I was surprised and excited by our results!

Pro tattoo cover-up product recommendations:

Yellow-based concealer: Lemon-Aid by BeneFit or Ben Nye’s Mellow Yellow Neutralizer.

Orange/Red based concealer: CoverBlend Concealer in various shades.

Cream-based Foundation: Cinema Secrets, Graftobian or Ben Nye theatrical foundations. Also, CoverFX Total Coverage Cream Foundation or Dermablend camouflage makeup are good alternatives if you are unable to purchase a theatrical product.

Setting Powder: Cinema Secrets theatrical setting powder. Comes in translucent or skin-tone hues.

Makeup Sealer: Skindanivia Makeup Setting Spray.

Specialty Products: Tattoo Camo Makeup, which includes Camo Paste that will hide all colors of tattoos. The kit contains paste/setting powder/remover. CoverBlend Corrective Leg and Body Makeup will cover most blue/green ink. Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer found at your local Sephora has you covered!

These same instructions and products can also help cover major skin "issues" and discolorations. If you suffer from Rosacea or other types of skin related or genetic problems try the tips above, they should provide and satisfy your need for coverage.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If you are “sleeved” or your tattoos are covering a large area of skin real estate, then it is the opinion of this Pro that you should hire a makeup artist who specializes in airbrushing. A skilled airbrush artist will be able to properly cover larger areas in a short amount of time and the silicone-based makeup used will have long lasting staying power!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Get the Look! Our Country truly is a gorgeous melting pot! The all-American look comes in many skin tones and you can look as sweet and innocent as the “girl next door” with IMPO’s step-by-step guide!

The Makeup Show 2011 - Los Angeles

The Pros are excited to attend this year's The Makeup Show on February 26th and 27th at the California Market Center in Los Angeles.  This event is a highlight that we look forward to each year because it is a gathering of some of the top Pros in our industry.  The mentors we turn to for advice, collaboration and continuing education will all be in attendance.

We have been attending this event for the past 4 years now both in New York and Los Angeles and this year we are excited to catch up with fellow artists that are representing some of the biggest brands in professional artistry and to discover new techniques that can take our makeup skills to the next level.

The Pros will also be attending the Blogger Preview Party and a reception honoring Maurice Stein, who is a legend in our industry having worked with many top celebrities, Grammy award winners and three US Presidents!  He is also the owner of Cinema Secrets, which is a cosmetics, hair and special effects supply store located in Los Angeles that provides product to every major studio, professional makeup artist, hair artist, celebrity, as well as the general public.  If Cinema Secrets doesn't carry it, it doesn't exist!

The Makeup Show Los Angeles is also the place to learn to become a makeup artist directly from the best in the business or if you already are a Pro, fine tune or learn a new skill that will boost your marketability.  This year top artists from Make Up For Ever will inspire you with their incredible workshops, as well as attend Makeup 101 with Orlando Santiago or Airbrush 101 with Myles O'Reilly.

Interested in the editorial industry?  Then attend Understanding Photo with Jon Hennessy or for bridal artists, you won't want to miss The Modern Bride seminar with Jo Levy for Becca Cosmetics. Legendary artist, Eugenia Weston will be demonstrating the art of perfecting eyebrows in her Master Workshop-The Art of Brows and Kathy Aragon will be conducting a workshop on achieving Essential Eye looks.

Need to be schooled on hair?  Guru Daven Mayeda will be teaching Basic Hair Styling for Makeup Artists this year and will show you how to maximize your career by understanding hair products, principals and fundamental techniques.  Danessa Myricks will show you how to achieve a perfect canvas in her hands-on workshop Perfect Skin and Joanna Schlip will be conducting a Master Workshop on how to achieve Everyday Hollywood Beauty.

Are you a makeup artist interested in getting into the local Union 706?  Then don't miss Susan Cabral Ebert's seminar called State of the Union.  Susan will tell you exactly what you need to do to become a makeup artist on Union film and television shows. Michael DeVellis for The Powder Group will help you learn how to capture long term success in his Marketing Your Career Now seminar and you must attend Women In The Industry with legends Eugenia Weston, Eve Pearl, Crystal Wright, Joanna Schlip and Danessa Myricks as they walk you through what it takes to to become a brand creator, bridal and beauty artist or Department Head on major television and motion pictures.

Esteemed artist Pati Dubroff, whose worked has graced the magazines of Vogue, Vanity Fair, W, InStyle and Harper's Bazaar and who is called on by A-List Celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Julianne Moore, Drew Barrymore and Gisele Bundchen, will be on hand to demonstrate and share many secrets on how to become a successful celebrity artist in her workshop Making Up.

For a list of all education opportunities - click here!

As if this wasn't enough, all the major industry brands will be on hand for discount shopping and demonstration directly at their booths. Exhibitors include: Alcone, BeautySoClean, Cinema Secrets, Crown Brush, Dermalogica, Dinair Airbrush, Embryolisse USA, Eve Pearl, Face Atelier, Frends Beauty Supply, Graftobian, Hakuhodo USA, Inglot Cosmetics, Kett Cosmetics, Kevyn Aucoin, Make Up Designory, Make Up For Ever, Mehron, Naked Cosmetics, Naimies Beauty Center, Nigels Beauty Emporium, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, Senna Cosmetics, Smashbox, Stila Cosmetics, Temptu PRO, Yaby Cosmetics, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics and Yves Saint Laurent, just to name a few.

For a complete list of exhibitors - click here!

The Pros are looking forward to interviewing renowned makeup artist, Victoria Stiles and Liz Yu owner and creator of Yaby Cosmetics!  We also can't wait to catch up with our YouTube friends Koren Zander from EnKoreMakeup and Eleesa from PurseBuzz because these two always have their fingers on the pulse of what is bigger, better and happening in the makeup industry!

On the Main Floor, we can't miss Academy Award Winning Makeup Artist, Ve Neill as she talks about the new SyFy show, Face Off! Ve is a judge on the show and she will takes us on a behind-the-scenes look in her seminar Face Off: Inside the SyFy Reality Show on Sunday.

We will definitely be stocking up on our disposable supplies because the discounts offered from industry stores like Alcone, Cinema Secrets, Frends, Naimes and Nigel's can't be beat!  So if you need sponges, puffs, mascara wands, brush cleaner or even if you need empty palettes, we highly recommend purchasing them at this event!

There is still time to get advanced tickets to this event - click here and if you see any of the IMPO Pros at The Makeup Show, make sure to say hello!  We would love to meet you!  See you there!